| Welcome! The project is finished. Enjoy the little tour of the hobby attic.
And as always I invite you to liking, disliking and subscribing on my channel. You know what to do...
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Witajcie! Projekt zakończony. Zapraszam do obejrzenia końcowego efektu oraz małej wycieczki po mojej jaskini.
Oczywiście jak zawsze zapraszam do subskrybowania, lajkowania, dislajkowania i tak dalej...
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Pokazywanie postów oznaczonych etykietą FoW. Pokaż wszystkie posty
Pokazywanie postów oznaczonych etykietą FoW. Pokaż wszystkie posty
środa, 20 lipca 2016
Budujemy stół do bitewniaków #3 / Building a wargaming table #3
poniedziałek, 18 lipca 2016
Budujemy stół do bitewniaków #2 / Building a wargaming table #2
| Welcome! Another part of the work in progress on my gaming table. Enjoy! |
Witajcie! Kolejna część prac nad stołem do bitewniaków. Miłego oglądania! |
czwartek, 30 czerwca 2016
Budujemy stół do wargamingu / Building a wargaming table
| Welcome! I present you a vlog which is an introduction to a series of episodes on building a wargaming table. Keep in touch ;)
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Witajcie! Odcinek pilotażowy opisujący co będziemy robić i jak będziemy budować nowy stół do wargamingu. W następnych odcinkach pokażę rozbiórkę starego i budowanie nowego. Zapraszam! |
wtorek, 21 stycznia 2014
Nasz pierwszy odlew / Our first cast
Witajcie w drugiej części. Zacznę od punktu siódmego, jako że na szóstym żeśmy zakończon, hehe.
Welcome in part two. I shall start with step seven, as on six finished we have, lols.
7. Jak pamiętacie na tym etapie skończył się poprzedni tutorial. Forma wyglądała tak:
As you remember, we have finished more or less in that state. The mould looked like this:
A po odwróceniu prezentuje się tak:
And after flipping upside down:
Po zdjęciu klocków i ogólnym wygląda tak:
After removing the bricks like this:
8. Teraz gotowi jesteśmy wyjąć ostrożnie oryginały i zobaczyć jak prezentuje się forma:
Now we are ready to remove the originals and inspect the mould:
9. Jak już wszystko się zgadza, łapiemy oryginały i wrzucamy na wagę. Jeśli były, jak w tym przypadku zrobione z żywicy, to sprawdzamy w ten sposób ile żywicy musimy przygotować do pierwszego odlewu.
Assuming everything's A-OK, grab the originals and weigh them. If they were, as in this case, cast in resin, this should give us a guideline on how much resin we need to prepare for our first cast.
10. Mamy już nasze 47g, czyli 24 na każdy składnik (przy żywicy dwuskładnikowej 50/50).
We got our 47 g, so 24g of each compound (in two compound resin 50/50).
W przypadku pierwszego odlewu, proponuję rozrobić trochę więcej i przygotować (jeśli już macie) inną formę, aby tam odlać resztkę. W ten sposób nic się nie zmarnuje, a na pewno wam wystarczy żywicy aby formę ładnie zalać.
If this is the first try with the mould I suggest mixing a bit more and have one other mould ready so you can dispense the remaining resin. This way we do not waste any and have enough to fill the mould properly.
11. Rozrobioną żywicę wlewamy połowicznie lub mniej w formę i stosujemy mój kolejny trik.
Pour the mixed resin half way into the mould and apply my next trick.
Patyczkiem do uszu rozprowadzamy po brzegach i dolnych partiach. W ten sposób unikniemy niedolewek. Jak już to zrobione, zalewamy resztę tak, aby była lekko wypukła, nie może być efektu niepełnej szklanki - wolimy przelaną.
With an ear bud spread the resin all over the bottom and deep creaveces of the mould to fill them with it avoiding any bubbles. Then we pour the rest until we have the effect of an overfilled glass top.
Jak na obrazku powyżej. Jak widzicie, forma na podstawkę dreadnoughta leży obok i zbiera resztki. Z kilku takich akcji mam podstawek, ich nigdy za mało.
Tak zalaną formę zostawiam na kilka godzin. W sumie można już wyjmować po 45 minutach, ale to są duże gabaryty i grube, więc dla bezpieczeństwa zostawiam na dłużej.
As you can see on the picture above, I have a dreadnought base at hand to pour excess resin. Couple of tries and I have a full base. There's never enough of them.
The mould should stay like this for couple hours at least. You can pull out after 45 minutes, but since these are huge in size and volume I should leave it longer.
12. Jak sprawdzić, że już wszystko gotowe? No ja na przykład odłamuję jakąś drobną nadlewkę:
How to check if it's all set? Try the overfilled resin:
Jeśli jest krucha, to można już wyjmować, ale wszystko zależy od żywicy jakiej użyjecie. Musicie to wyczuć po prostu. Jeśli macie wątpliwości, zostawcie na dłużej, proste.
If it cracks easy it should mean it's OK to pull casts out. You need to get the feel of the resin you use. The longer you leave it in, the better.
13. I Voila! Cyk Myk i nasze twory są gotowe!
And Voila! Few steps and it's ready!
Jeśli macie jakieś sugestie lub też pytania odnośnie powyższego tutka, piszcie śmiało w komentarzach.
If you have any questions regarding this tutorial, go ahead and ask in the comments.
Welcome in part two. I shall start with step seven, as on six finished we have, lols.
7. Jak pamiętacie na tym etapie skończył się poprzedni tutorial. Forma wyglądała tak:
As you remember, we have finished more or less in that state. The mould looked like this:
A po odwróceniu prezentuje się tak:
And after flipping upside down:
Po zdjęciu klocków i ogólnym wygląda tak:
After removing the bricks like this:
8. Teraz gotowi jesteśmy wyjąć ostrożnie oryginały i zobaczyć jak prezentuje się forma:
Now we are ready to remove the originals and inspect the mould:
9. Jak już wszystko się zgadza, łapiemy oryginały i wrzucamy na wagę. Jeśli były, jak w tym przypadku zrobione z żywicy, to sprawdzamy w ten sposób ile żywicy musimy przygotować do pierwszego odlewu.
Assuming everything's A-OK, grab the originals and weigh them. If they were, as in this case, cast in resin, this should give us a guideline on how much resin we need to prepare for our first cast.
10. Mamy już nasze 47g, czyli 24 na każdy składnik (przy żywicy dwuskładnikowej 50/50).
We got our 47 g, so 24g of each compound (in two compound resin 50/50).
W przypadku pierwszego odlewu, proponuję rozrobić trochę więcej i przygotować (jeśli już macie) inną formę, aby tam odlać resztkę. W ten sposób nic się nie zmarnuje, a na pewno wam wystarczy żywicy aby formę ładnie zalać.
If this is the first try with the mould I suggest mixing a bit more and have one other mould ready so you can dispense the remaining resin. This way we do not waste any and have enough to fill the mould properly.
11. Rozrobioną żywicę wlewamy połowicznie lub mniej w formę i stosujemy mój kolejny trik.
Pour the mixed resin half way into the mould and apply my next trick.
Patyczkiem do uszu rozprowadzamy po brzegach i dolnych partiach. W ten sposób unikniemy niedolewek. Jak już to zrobione, zalewamy resztę tak, aby była lekko wypukła, nie może być efektu niepełnej szklanki - wolimy przelaną.
With an ear bud spread the resin all over the bottom and deep creaveces of the mould to fill them with it avoiding any bubbles. Then we pour the rest until we have the effect of an overfilled glass top.
Jak na obrazku powyżej. Jak widzicie, forma na podstawkę dreadnoughta leży obok i zbiera resztki. Z kilku takich akcji mam podstawek, ich nigdy za mało.
Tak zalaną formę zostawiam na kilka godzin. W sumie można już wyjmować po 45 minutach, ale to są duże gabaryty i grube, więc dla bezpieczeństwa zostawiam na dłużej.
As you can see on the picture above, I have a dreadnought base at hand to pour excess resin. Couple of tries and I have a full base. There's never enough of them.
The mould should stay like this for couple hours at least. You can pull out after 45 minutes, but since these are huge in size and volume I should leave it longer.
12. Jak sprawdzić, że już wszystko gotowe? No ja na przykład odłamuję jakąś drobną nadlewkę:
How to check if it's all set? Try the overfilled resin:
Jeśli jest krucha, to można już wyjmować, ale wszystko zależy od żywicy jakiej użyjecie. Musicie to wyczuć po prostu. Jeśli macie wątpliwości, zostawcie na dłużej, proste.
If it cracks easy it should mean it's OK to pull casts out. You need to get the feel of the resin you use. The longer you leave it in, the better.
13. I Voila! Cyk Myk i nasze twory są gotowe!
And Voila! Few steps and it's ready!
Jeśli macie jakieś sugestie lub też pytania odnośnie powyższego tutka, piszcie śmiało w komentarzach.
If you have any questions regarding this tutorial, go ahead and ask in the comments.
niedziela, 19 stycznia 2014
Przygotowanie formy silikonowej / Silicone mould preparation
Witajcie! Po długawej przerwie przygotowałem dla was mały tutorial. Nic wielkiego, ale dla kogoś, kto chciałby zacząć bawić się formami odlewniczymi, zawsze jakiś początek. A więc do rzeczy...
Welcome! After a longer break I bring you a short tutorial. It's something for those of you would like to start playing with resin moulds. Let's go!
1. Najpierw musimy wymyślić sobie układ jaki chcemy zastosować. Najlepiej grupować w jednej formie elementy podobnej głębokości, tudzież wysokości. Ograniczy to marnowanie silikonu i umożliwi stosowanie wkładek z elementów starych form (o tym później). Zerknijcie na obrazek poniżej:
1. First you need to come up with a set up of your mould. Keep items of the same height / depth together, so it is possible to use remains of old mould (later on that) and minimise waste of silicone.
Duże beczki i duże skrzynie są w jednej linii, małe elementy w drugiej. Starajcie się zachować kilka milimetrów odstępu między jednym elementem a drugim, aby ścianki nie były zbyt cienkie. Uchroni nas to przed odkształceniami odlewu i uszkodzeniami formy przy wyjmowaniu. Ja proponuję minimum 3 milimetry przerwy jak już będziecie wiedzieć jak wyjmować, aby nie uszkodzić.
Big barrels and crates are put together, small elements as well. Try to keep few milimeters of space between each item, so the walls keep the shape of the original. I strongly suggest minimum 3 milimeters. This will also keep the mould safe from damaging during removal of casts.
2. Kolejnym krokiem jest ułożenie bariery trzymającej silikon w miejscu. Na tym etapie nie mocuję go jeszcze do podłoża (o tym dlaczego już za chwilę). Upewnijcie się, jak przy rozmieszczaniu elementów, aby było dość miejsca do krawędzi. Zewnętrzna grubość jest w sumie najważniejsza i trzyma waszą formę w formie, że tak się wyrażę...
2. Next step is to build a barrier keeping the silicone in place. I do not fasten it to the base just yet (more on that later). Make sure that the external borders are thick as well. They will keep the whole mould in shape.
Zerknijcie na to z góry:
View from the top:
3. Teraz, kiedy formę mamy już gotową przystępujemy do rozrobienia silikonu. Są dwa sposoby: naukowy i "na oko". Naukowy to wyliczenie ile gram na cm3 silikonu potrzebuje w formie, minus cm3 zajmowane przez nasze oryginały. Ja preferuję ten drugi, wystarczająco form już narobiłem, żeby wiedzieć kiedy mam dość silikonu.
Silikon którego używam wymaga 5-6% aktywatora, więc na 103 gram wlewam kolejne 6.
3. Now when that's done, you need to start mixing the silicone. There are two ways to go about it: scientific and "gut" one. The scientific one is the calculation of how many grams per cm3 of silicone you need for the mould, minus cm3 of items you got in the mould. I prefer the "gut" one, I have done enough moulds to know how much I need.
For this mould I will start with 103 grams of silicone and 6 grams of activator (5-6% of silicone).
Teraz należy dokładnie wymieszać. TEN ETAP JEST BARDZO WAŻNY. Inaczej pokryjecie swoje twory silikonem, nie gotowym na ścięcie. Albo co gorsza, z wierzchu będzie tip-top, a w środku będzie świeży. Mieszajcie dotąd, aż będzie to jednolita masa. Zbierajcie z dołu kubeczka, z brzegów, z boków... wszystko należy wmieszać.
Now you need to mix it thoroughly. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you do not mix it properly, you might end up with your items being covered with partly mixed silicone, which is not ready to set. Your mould will be useless and would have to be thrown out. While mixing, make sure you scrape the bottom, sides and all parts of your cup.
4. Kiedy już nasza masa jest gotowa pokrywamy zawartość formy. I tu mój mały trik. Ja mianowicie najpierw pędzelkiem "od silikonu" pokrywam wszystkie szczegóły. Mnie idzie to całkiem szybko, ale jeśli nie macie jeszcze do siebie zaufania, to rozróbcie sobie najpierw małą ilość silikonu i dopiero jak już skończycie ten etap, to rozróbcie resztę.
4. When our mix is ready and uniform, you can start covering your mould. And here's my trick. I use "that silicone" brush and cover all details on my originals. This way I am sure they will be present in the final mould. It doesn't take too much time, but if you do not want to rush it or your model is complex, make two batches of silicone, one small one with the rest.
Można ten krok spokojnie pominąć, ale ryzyko jest, że nie wszystkie szczegóły będą widoczne na formie, albo co gorsza powstaną w silikonie bąbelki, które będę nadlewkami na odlewie.
You can easily skip this step, but your risk not have all the details in the final mould. What's worse, you might get bubbles, which will be extra resin on your cast.
5. Teraz zalewam formę resztką rozrobionego silikonu. Jeśli nie pokryję całej to nic się nie stanie, zawsze można dorobić. Gorzej jak mamy silikonu za dużo.
5. Now it's time to cover the mould with the rest of the silicone. If it's not covered fully, no worries. It's better to have less than too much of silicone.
Nie martwcie się tymi bąbelkami. Powstają przy nalewaniu. Im wolniej tym lepiej. Im rzadszy silikon tym lepiej, sam się wypoziomuje, co dam nam równą podstawę przy odlewaniu.
Do not worry with these air bubbles. They appear while pouring the silicone. The runnier the silicone, the more bubbles and better for us. It will self level and prepare a flat base for casting later.
6. Teraz możemy zająć się dorobieniem silikonu i wykorzystaniem starych ścinek niepotrzebnych, zużytych form (tak, formy się zużywają po jakimś czasie).
6. Now you can start adding bits of old moulds. Yes, yes... moulds get used up after some time.
Jak prawdopodobnie widać, w lewym dolnym rogu włożyłem kawałek starej formy.
As you can see in the bottom left corner, I have put a bit of an old mould.
A tu już nie widać, ponieważ ją trochę podtopiłem.
And now you don't, cause I sank it a bit.
Po odczekaniu od 12h do 24h (lubię mieć pewność) w zależności od grubości formy, możemy rozebrać wszystko i bawić się w odlewanie.
After 12 to 24 hours (I like to be sure), depending on mould thickness, we can take out the parts and start casting.
Taka mała notka: tak, użyłem tutaj skrzynek i beczek jakiejś firmy, ale nie miałem nic lepszego pod ręką, co by miało prosty kształt i dało się ogarnąć początkującym. W następnym tutku, pokażę jak otworzyć taką formę i przygotować odlew. Mam z tym parę sztuczek związanych.
Side note: yes, I have used some company's barrels and crates, but they were the simplest shape I had at hand that would be easy for a first cast for beginners. In next tutorial I will show you how to carry on with your first cast, and few tricks I have.
Welcome! After a longer break I bring you a short tutorial. It's something for those of you would like to start playing with resin moulds. Let's go!
1. Najpierw musimy wymyślić sobie układ jaki chcemy zastosować. Najlepiej grupować w jednej formie elementy podobnej głębokości, tudzież wysokości. Ograniczy to marnowanie silikonu i umożliwi stosowanie wkładek z elementów starych form (o tym później). Zerknijcie na obrazek poniżej:
1. First you need to come up with a set up of your mould. Keep items of the same height / depth together, so it is possible to use remains of old mould (later on that) and minimise waste of silicone.
Duże beczki i duże skrzynie są w jednej linii, małe elementy w drugiej. Starajcie się zachować kilka milimetrów odstępu między jednym elementem a drugim, aby ścianki nie były zbyt cienkie. Uchroni nas to przed odkształceniami odlewu i uszkodzeniami formy przy wyjmowaniu. Ja proponuję minimum 3 milimetry przerwy jak już będziecie wiedzieć jak wyjmować, aby nie uszkodzić.
Big barrels and crates are put together, small elements as well. Try to keep few milimeters of space between each item, so the walls keep the shape of the original. I strongly suggest minimum 3 milimeters. This will also keep the mould safe from damaging during removal of casts.
2. Kolejnym krokiem jest ułożenie bariery trzymającej silikon w miejscu. Na tym etapie nie mocuję go jeszcze do podłoża (o tym dlaczego już za chwilę). Upewnijcie się, jak przy rozmieszczaniu elementów, aby było dość miejsca do krawędzi. Zewnętrzna grubość jest w sumie najważniejsza i trzyma waszą formę w formie, że tak się wyrażę...
2. Next step is to build a barrier keeping the silicone in place. I do not fasten it to the base just yet (more on that later). Make sure that the external borders are thick as well. They will keep the whole mould in shape.
Zerknijcie na to z góry:
View from the top:
3. Teraz, kiedy formę mamy już gotową przystępujemy do rozrobienia silikonu. Są dwa sposoby: naukowy i "na oko". Naukowy to wyliczenie ile gram na cm3 silikonu potrzebuje w formie, minus cm3 zajmowane przez nasze oryginały. Ja preferuję ten drugi, wystarczająco form już narobiłem, żeby wiedzieć kiedy mam dość silikonu.
Silikon którego używam wymaga 5-6% aktywatora, więc na 103 gram wlewam kolejne 6.
3. Now when that's done, you need to start mixing the silicone. There are two ways to go about it: scientific and "gut" one. The scientific one is the calculation of how many grams per cm3 of silicone you need for the mould, minus cm3 of items you got in the mould. I prefer the "gut" one, I have done enough moulds to know how much I need.
For this mould I will start with 103 grams of silicone and 6 grams of activator (5-6% of silicone).
Teraz należy dokładnie wymieszać. TEN ETAP JEST BARDZO WAŻNY. Inaczej pokryjecie swoje twory silikonem, nie gotowym na ścięcie. Albo co gorsza, z wierzchu będzie tip-top, a w środku będzie świeży. Mieszajcie dotąd, aż będzie to jednolita masa. Zbierajcie z dołu kubeczka, z brzegów, z boków... wszystko należy wmieszać.
Now you need to mix it thoroughly. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you do not mix it properly, you might end up with your items being covered with partly mixed silicone, which is not ready to set. Your mould will be useless and would have to be thrown out. While mixing, make sure you scrape the bottom, sides and all parts of your cup.
4. Kiedy już nasza masa jest gotowa pokrywamy zawartość formy. I tu mój mały trik. Ja mianowicie najpierw pędzelkiem "od silikonu" pokrywam wszystkie szczegóły. Mnie idzie to całkiem szybko, ale jeśli nie macie jeszcze do siebie zaufania, to rozróbcie sobie najpierw małą ilość silikonu i dopiero jak już skończycie ten etap, to rozróbcie resztę.
4. When our mix is ready and uniform, you can start covering your mould. And here's my trick. I use "that silicone" brush and cover all details on my originals. This way I am sure they will be present in the final mould. It doesn't take too much time, but if you do not want to rush it or your model is complex, make two batches of silicone, one small one with the rest.
Można ten krok spokojnie pominąć, ale ryzyko jest, że nie wszystkie szczegóły będą widoczne na formie, albo co gorsza powstaną w silikonie bąbelki, które będę nadlewkami na odlewie.
You can easily skip this step, but your risk not have all the details in the final mould. What's worse, you might get bubbles, which will be extra resin on your cast.
5. Teraz zalewam formę resztką rozrobionego silikonu. Jeśli nie pokryję całej to nic się nie stanie, zawsze można dorobić. Gorzej jak mamy silikonu za dużo.
5. Now it's time to cover the mould with the rest of the silicone. If it's not covered fully, no worries. It's better to have less than too much of silicone.
Nie martwcie się tymi bąbelkami. Powstają przy nalewaniu. Im wolniej tym lepiej. Im rzadszy silikon tym lepiej, sam się wypoziomuje, co dam nam równą podstawę przy odlewaniu.
Do not worry with these air bubbles. They appear while pouring the silicone. The runnier the silicone, the more bubbles and better for us. It will self level and prepare a flat base for casting later.
6. Teraz możemy zająć się dorobieniem silikonu i wykorzystaniem starych ścinek niepotrzebnych, zużytych form (tak, formy się zużywają po jakimś czasie).
6. Now you can start adding bits of old moulds. Yes, yes... moulds get used up after some time.
Jak prawdopodobnie widać, w lewym dolnym rogu włożyłem kawałek starej formy.
As you can see in the bottom left corner, I have put a bit of an old mould.
A tu już nie widać, ponieważ ją trochę podtopiłem.
And now you don't, cause I sank it a bit.
Po odczekaniu od 12h do 24h (lubię mieć pewność) w zależności od grubości formy, możemy rozebrać wszystko i bawić się w odlewanie.
After 12 to 24 hours (I like to be sure), depending on mould thickness, we can take out the parts and start casting.
Taka mała notka: tak, użyłem tutaj skrzynek i beczek jakiejś firmy, ale nie miałem nic lepszego pod ręką, co by miało prosty kształt i dało się ogarnąć początkującym. W następnym tutku, pokażę jak otworzyć taką formę i przygotować odlew. Mam z tym parę sztuczek związanych.
Side note: yes, I have used some company's barrels and crates, but they were the simplest shape I had at hand that would be easy for a first cast for beginners. In next tutorial I will show you how to carry on with your first cast, and few tricks I have.
poniedziałek, 25 lipca 2011
Flames of War boccage and 40k Orky ruins
So, the stage where I build up the base of the boccage is over.
I Sprayed them as sort of rocks and applied some Woodland Scenics bushes to the top of one of the corners. That's how it looks like:
While I had the floor covered in kitty litter (can't avoid any spillages) I decided to get rid of of one of the boxes I had lying around and turned it quickly into some kind of orky barricades/ruins/whatever. Looks kinda cool and is perfect for 40k or any sci-fi 28mm game system.
Comments? Suggestions? Always welcomed!
Till later gang...
I Sprayed them as sort of rocks and applied some Woodland Scenics bushes to the top of one of the corners. That's how it looks like:
While I had the floor covered in kitty litter (can't avoid any spillages) I decided to get rid of of one of the boxes I had lying around and turned it quickly into some kind of orky barricades/ruins/whatever. Looks kinda cool and is perfect for 40k or any sci-fi 28mm game system.
Comments? Suggestions? Always welcomed!
Till later gang...
niedziela, 24 lipca 2011
Flames of War boccage, eggs and bacon
Right, so being on a roll with terrain building I went on to build myself some boccage. I found lots of pictures online and looked at some tutorials on forums. I decided to use whatever I have got in my stock. And that is lots of cardboard, board and other recycled paper.
So at first I cut out strips of old perforated board 6" long, 1" wide; another strips 6" long and 0.5" wide. I attached them at 90 degrees angle with PVA. But two things happened. Not only I couldn't keep the bits stay up, also when I did, the board warped and look fugly.
The I decided to use board after a board game box. I cut the same size strips and this time I used plastic glue gun to attach them. Two things went right: it was really easy to attach them and keep the parts straight and there was no warping.
These are the results:
Oh yes, I also made couple corners, 1" wide.
After all this I started layering kitty litter with some PVA. The photo below shows the bits after two layers:
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What are your thoughts?
Also, there is something amazing for you to enjoy after you read and ponder over this post :D
So at first I cut out strips of old perforated board 6" long, 1" wide; another strips 6" long and 0.5" wide. I attached them at 90 degrees angle with PVA. But two things happened. Not only I couldn't keep the bits stay up, also when I did, the board warped and look fugly.
The I decided to use board after a board game box. I cut the same size strips and this time I used plastic glue gun to attach them. Two things went right: it was really easy to attach them and keep the parts straight and there was no warping.
These are the results:
Oh yes, I also made couple corners, 1" wide.
After all this I started layering kitty litter with some PVA. The photo below shows the bits after two layers:
What are your thoughts?
Also, there is something amazing for you to enjoy after you read and ponder over this post :D
czwartek, 21 lipca 2011
Flames of War rivers are now finished and drying
Right, I have spent another hour or so on my river sections. They are now drying, PVA to be exact. I like what I see. Do you?
Next up I will be working on some roads I already cut out. I need a bit more crossroads but I will show that in couple days.
Till later!
Next up I will be working on some roads I already cut out. I need a bit more crossroads but I will show that in couple days.
Till later!
wtorek, 19 lipca 2011
Flames of War rivers
I decided to finalise all those bits of terrain for flames I always wanted to put on the table. And as I hate using unpainted stuff, I got cracking with the rivers.
I had those boxes of Monopoly lying around and I decided to take them apart to cut out the segments. I think they turned out pretty well. I know it's pretty straight but maybe later I will add some curves. For now I ran out of Army Painter's Medium Sand. I will try painting them later on. For now there are just painted black.
Comments?
I had those boxes of Monopoly lying around and I decided to take them apart to cut out the segments. I think they turned out pretty well. I know it's pretty straight but maybe later I will add some curves. For now I ran out of Army Painter's Medium Sand. I will try painting them later on. For now there are just painted black.
Comments?
wtorek, 22 marca 2011
Cyborks and Panzers... busy day!
After more then a week off hobby I'm back again.
In that time I managed to spread the hobby bug to my brother who is now starting his own army of Imperial Guard. As a birthday present I bought him a Battleforce and he bought a Basilisk. I told him how to do stuff, I gave him some basic tools. Now it's up to him to get the bastards ready for my choppy orks.
In those two days since he left, I managed to work a little bit on my cyborks; nobz with cybork bodies. I want the convertions to be based on Necrons. Their bits look techie enough to pull it off. Also I will be using Scarabs as faces! Here are the examples...
They are not finished though. I'm still thinking of doing some kind of rebreather under the mask. I already glued a pipe under the chin and it needs to be green stuffed. Pictures will follow when I do some work on them.
I have done some work on a Big Mek with Kustom Force Field...
Also, in the spirit of a hobby bug me and my brother bought Panzers... I got Panzer Ausf. L and my brother Ausf. M. The models are made by Revell in 1:72 scale. It took me 3 hours to glue it together and another hour to do some battle damage and transfers.
I have to do weathering on it, but I'm still not sure if I want to use just paints or go with the proper weathering kits and fill the tracks with muck and such. I will have to leave it for later as commission work is piling on and I need to get cracking!
Anyways, my brother has finished his tank too:
He still needs to paint it and to other bits, but it is all good for someone who haven't touched a blade or plastic glue in more than ten years.
So, till next time my dear readers!
In that time I managed to spread the hobby bug to my brother who is now starting his own army of Imperial Guard. As a birthday present I bought him a Battleforce and he bought a Basilisk. I told him how to do stuff, I gave him some basic tools. Now it's up to him to get the bastards ready for my choppy orks.
In those two days since he left, I managed to work a little bit on my cyborks; nobz with cybork bodies. I want the convertions to be based on Necrons. Their bits look techie enough to pull it off. Also I will be using Scarabs as faces! Here are the examples...
They are not finished though. I'm still thinking of doing some kind of rebreather under the mask. I already glued a pipe under the chin and it needs to be green stuffed. Pictures will follow when I do some work on them.
I have done some work on a Big Mek with Kustom Force Field...
Also, in the spirit of a hobby bug me and my brother bought Panzers... I got Panzer Ausf. L and my brother Ausf. M. The models are made by Revell in 1:72 scale. It took me 3 hours to glue it together and another hour to do some battle damage and transfers.
I have to do weathering on it, but I'm still not sure if I want to use just paints or go with the proper weathering kits and fill the tracks with muck and such. I will have to leave it for later as commission work is piling on and I need to get cracking!
Anyways, my brother has finished his tank too:
He still needs to paint it and to other bits, but it is all good for someone who haven't touched a blade or plastic glue in more than ten years.
So, till next time my dear readers!
środa, 2 marca 2011
I got myself a table, woot!
I had dreams... rectangular dreams. I wanted a table for skirmish games like Kill Zone, Malifaux and Warmachine. Also, some small 40k and Battle.
I wanted something that will not take up too much space in my small flat. Modular table was in order. After browsing through B&Q catalogue I decided to go for two 2'x 4' boards, MDF 9mm thick. I attached both parts with gaffer tape and some staples. Then some more gaffer tape.
I couldn't stop myself from having a small photo shoot. I dug out my Polish 1st Armoured Division of tank infantry. Here you can see them going through a small italian city.
And that's how my table looks like from a little bit farther away:
What do you think?
I wanted something that will not take up too much space in my small flat. Modular table was in order. After browsing through B&Q catalogue I decided to go for two 2'x 4' boards, MDF 9mm thick. I attached both parts with gaffer tape and some staples. Then some more gaffer tape.
I couldn't stop myself from having a small photo shoot. I dug out my Polish 1st Armoured Division of tank infantry. Here you can see them going through a small italian city.
And that's how my table looks like from a little bit farther away:
What do you think?
sobota, 26 lutego 2011
Something different today
After reading the latest issue of Wargames Illustrated I got sort of inspired to do sth for my Flames of War army. This one over here is just a test model to see IF I can do that and what mistakes to avoid while making it.
So there are three issues I noticed:
1) the back part is covered with cardboard (you can't see it in ths photo) - I need to use styrofoam glued with PVA glue, not cardboard with glue gun, more room for errors and later modifications, also no gaps
2) I'm not sure about the scale of it, it seems a bit too shallow - need to make another one a bit taller / deeper
3) I need vertical poles to hold the wooden planks - I omitted them on purpose to save myself some time at this one, will do them for all others
Comments from you guys are always welcome!
So there are three issues I noticed:
1) the back part is covered with cardboard (you can't see it in ths photo) - I need to use styrofoam glued with PVA glue, not cardboard with glue gun, more room for errors and later modifications, also no gaps
2) I'm not sure about the scale of it, it seems a bit too shallow - need to make another one a bit taller / deeper
3) I need vertical poles to hold the wooden planks - I omitted them on purpose to save myself some time at this one, will do them for all others
Comments from you guys are always welcome!
piątek, 10 września 2010
Area 9 scenery - review
What makes your gaming table really come to life? Is it your nicely painted models? Yes... anything else? Well, you guessed right! Scenery! As it is pretty easy to get some stuff for 40k and Fantasy, with other systems it might be a bit of a challenge. When you play small scale games like Flames of War you need terrain, buildings and decorations that suit the historical period. Doing it yourself, as much as it can be fun, is time consuming. When you want to get something nice, quick... you need to spend money, loads of it. That's why you need to make sure you get a good quality product. And here comes Area 9.
Italian range
When it comes to Flames of War, they carry a huge range of different buildings like Italian, Russian and their latest range West European. What is special about their offer is that for most of the items you can choose if you want the stuff unpainted, painted or painted and weather (with the latest range at least). Go and check their prices for any specifics.
I have played many games on tables filled with their stuff and I must say: it does feel and look amazing. All of the buildings are cut into separate levels with floors. Usually you can fit two, three bases on each level which makes it exceptionally useful when garisoning a building. The scale fits the models so well, you wish you didn't have to use bases so they would look even more life like.
The quality of the resin is also great. No chipping, no scratching. It does not feel like it is about to fall apart. It is also lightweight. Easy to paint, easy to maintain.
So... if you play any 15mm games set in WW2 like Flames of War I would strongly recommend you go to their website and check the range and place an order! You won't be disappointed. Also, join them on Facebook for latest updates and work progress.
Till Later!
Italian range
When it comes to Flames of War, they carry a huge range of different buildings like Italian, Russian and their latest range West European. What is special about their offer is that for most of the items you can choose if you want the stuff unpainted, painted or painted and weather (with the latest range at least). Go and check their prices for any specifics.
Western Europe (weathered)
Russian range
The quality of the resin is also great. No chipping, no scratching. It does not feel like it is about to fall apart. It is also lightweight. Easy to paint, easy to maintain.
So... if you play any 15mm games set in WW2 like Flames of War I would strongly recommend you go to their website and check the range and place an order! You won't be disappointed. Also, join them on Facebook for latest updates and work progress.
Till Later!
wtorek, 27 kwietnia 2010
Flames of Passion?
Oh it's been a while again since I posted anything. It's not my fault. It really isn't. My laptop is broken, still being serviced, and I just figured it out how post stuff from my phone.
One major thing happened during this couple of weeks. I started playing Flames of War. Unfortunately for me Mike from Wargames Heaven, my LGS, introduced me to this game and we became friends since then. Me and the game, not me and Mike. Me and him it's a completely different story.
I decided to collect an army that would represent my background and being polish it wasn't that difficult since the game is all about WW2. My love for big metal stuff has been reinvigorated by the sight of 1st Polish Armoured Division. So far I got 24 tanks. Actually that's a lie! I got 28. Another four Shermans have been painted for my Infantry Company. Yes, a second division I'm building. Yes, it's my new crack! Yes it costs me alot of money. Yes, yes, yes! Guilty as charged... just don't show my missus any of the receipts. Or the totals.
All that doesn't mean I haven't given any love to my 40k armies. My orks got one new Trukk and a new Battlewagon. My Raven Guard got a Predator and a squad of Legionaires o the Damned.
Warmachine also got a lick of paint. Started and almost finished painted Karchev the Terrible. I still need to finish of, hehe, two of my heavy jacks and that will be it.
I apologise for the lack of pictures, but it would be too much hassle uploading them via my phone. I will put up second part of this post with pictures or just post couple smaller ones concerning specific games. So till then!
TTFN!
One major thing happened during this couple of weeks. I started playing Flames of War. Unfortunately for me Mike from Wargames Heaven, my LGS, introduced me to this game and we became friends since then. Me and the game, not me and Mike. Me and him it's a completely different story.
I decided to collect an army that would represent my background and being polish it wasn't that difficult since the game is all about WW2. My love for big metal stuff has been reinvigorated by the sight of 1st Polish Armoured Division. So far I got 24 tanks. Actually that's a lie! I got 28. Another four Shermans have been painted for my Infantry Company. Yes, a second division I'm building. Yes, it's my new crack! Yes it costs me alot of money. Yes, yes, yes! Guilty as charged... just don't show my missus any of the receipts. Or the totals.
All that doesn't mean I haven't given any love to my 40k armies. My orks got one new Trukk and a new Battlewagon. My Raven Guard got a Predator and a squad of Legionaires o the Damned.
Warmachine also got a lick of paint. Started and almost finished painted Karchev the Terrible. I still need to finish of, hehe, two of my heavy jacks and that will be it.
I apologise for the lack of pictures, but it would be too much hassle uploading them via my phone. I will put up second part of this post with pictures or just post couple smaller ones concerning specific games. So till then!
TTFN!
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